What is required for get a car dealer license in texas?

jorgitoo

Thats my cuestion, what i need to get my car dealer license in el paso texa, who can help me to get it, where i need call for info ? 5 star to best answer....

Answer
Car dealer license information is provided on the Texas DMV website, which is linked below.

http://www.txdmv.gov/vehicles/dealers/licensing.htm

Car dealer overpaid for my trade-in...........?

MarenN

I just purchased a vehicle from a dealer and I traded in my old vehicle. I owed $2,775 for my old vehicle and they were giving me $8,500 for the trade-in. Before going to the dealer I printed out the pay-off quote from my finance company. When we were negotiating the contract for the new vehicle, the car salesman said that they had to put the amount owed on my old vehicle from my credit report which was $3,190 because I had a recent payment that had not been reported. They subtracted the credit report amount from my $8,500 trade-in amount and and applied the remainder as my down payment. They said that the overpayment on my old vehicle would be refunded to me after the account was closed. The salesman and the finance lady both said that it would be mine to keep. Now only a week later, the same lady that did the financing paperwork is calling saying that there was an overpayment of over $300 to my trade-in and that I needed to give them the check. Did they mistakenly forget or did I get swindled? I know that there main goal is to make money, but this is an Infiniti dealer and not some whole in the wall, buy here pay here place and I didn't expect that from them. Thanks in advance for your responses.
Rancingfan........I was trying to not be vague. I was not upside down on my trade-in. My car was worth $8500, but I still owed $2775. That leaves me with a net of $5725 to apply toward the sales price of the new vehicle($27500). However, they put on the sales contract that the amount owed on my old vehicle was $3090 because my most recent payment to my old vehicle had not been reported to the credit bureau. Why should they get the extra money?

Answer
If the new car was $10,000 and $3000 was owed on the trade in car, the loan would be $13,000 only if the trade had zero value. If the trade car was worth $5,000, then the loan would be $8,000 plus sales tax, title and tags, dealer pack fees and any extras like upgrade radio.

Go to the company which financed your trade when you bought it. They will tell you, in writing, what payoff they quoted to the dealer. Take this info to the dealer, and talk to the finance manager. If the dealer charged you $3,090 to pay off trade and the amount actually paid by dealer to old lender was $2,775, then dealer owes you the difference. If the amount they paid was actually $3,300, then you owe the dealer money. After sorting this out, you calculate the accurate payoff on trade, to the actual date finance company received the money for payoff, and settle with them. Usually, they will quote payoff to a date several days after the transaction, and will owe you the excess.

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Dealership claims I don't have warranty on car when I was supposed to?

Jordan G

I recently purchased a used car from a Ford dealership.
On the window of the car, it had a small sticker saying this car had warranty plans, ranging from 30-90 days. On an even bigger sticker on the back windshield, in large print, there are 2 check boxes:
[ ] No Warranty- As Is
[X] Warranty
Warranty is clearly checked, and it goes on to describe the warranty info. It also had the specific model number and stock number of the vehicle, in the dealership's system. So this sticker was specifically for this vehicle.

So throughout the process of purchasing the vehicle, the dealer, named Mike, kept mentioning the warranty. When I went for a test drive, I noticed a possible leak and the A/C making a rattling noise. Again, he kept mentioning the warranty, saying "Any issues with the car, you bring it in and we fix that up for you, no charge." Those issues were fixed within a day, in the midst of finalizing the deal. With the warranty and these issues fixed, we obviously felt confident about this car.
The day I finalized the purchase, I met with Mike in the morning. I payed in full, cash, for the vehicle. It was being registered in my mother's name, so we had to come back to sign papers later on when she was out of work.

When we returned, Mike was not there, and we dealt with a different salesman. We sat in a room, and he had us signing papers. He kept making it a point that we'd be out of here with a new car in minutes. He handed us things to sign, basically said "sign this and you'll be out of here within 3 minutes." So clearly, he's in a rush to get us out. Without describing what we were signing, the receipt had in small print "Car sold 'as is.' No warranty on this vehicle." Never was I notified that the warranty was suddenly not being offered to me. So with that said, why would I even think to ask about it? And why would they not explain it to my mother? This was the first time she came with me to the dealership, so wouldn't they explain everything to the person they are really selling it to?

Less than a week after purchasing the vehicle, my check engine light came on and the car was leaking fluids. I called on a Monday to schedule an appointment, they couldn't get me in until Friday. I showed up and handed my keys over. Before going to the waiting room, I made sure to ask "This is covered under warranty, correct?" The lady responded, "Yes, you're all set. No worries." So I waited patiently for 2 1/2 hours. They finally came in, said they fixed the engine light issue (spark plug). They couldn't fix the leak, I guess they didn't have the parts they needed. It was a Friday, so any orders wouldn't be in until the following Tuesday the earliest. So Tuesday came around, no call. On Wednesday, I called them up and asked how long I'd be waiting. She said they don't have any way of tracking the shipment, so they didn't even know. On Thursday, I received a restricted call. They left a voice-mail. Turns out it was the dealership. The lady said to give her a call back.

I call her back, and she informs me that I am not covered under warranty. The car was sold as is, and they have the papers to prove it. I explain how there was a verbal agreement and how it was even posted on the car. She says that apparently, my car was too old to cover with a warranty (2000 Ford Taurus) so that is why it was sold as is. I WAS NEVER INFORMED THIS. She said they would be willing to work on my car, just obviously with me paying out of pocket as normal. She says that the mechanics also noticed a coil spring near the rear tire is loose. She just thought she would mention it to be courteous, as I have a 4 month old baby that I drive with in this car. She's worried that it could blow a tire while driving. WHY IN THE WORLD was I not informed this sooner? The mechanic withholding that information potentially put my daughter and I at serious risk, as I frequently drive on the highway.

So at this point, I decided to call Mike to set things straight. I explain to him how there was warranty information ON THE CAR in two different locations, and all throughout our discussion, he kept mentioning it. He explained that he doesn't recall discussing it, as it was 2 weeks ago. The only thing they can go by is what's on paper, which is a signature of my mother, finalizing the deal, with the tiny words mentioning the whole "as is" business. He said the best he could do was double check the papers. He abruptly hung up the phone.
I have not contacted them since. However, today I discovered the large sticker about the warranty in my glove box. I plan on having a talk with them tomorrow. At the least, I'll explain that I was completely mislead, that transferring to a different employee could've caused an error, that mine and my child's life has been in danger, and delaying the repair of this car has potentially caused even greater damage.

Am I in the wrong? Is there any chance they'll actually help me?
I literally just payed them in full, with cash, for a used car, and they clearly snuck this tiny detail of as-is under my nose at the last second...

Answer
That surely sucks when some con game dealer and salesman pull this kind of crap. Sadly this happens all across the is country everyday. One thing you need to look at is the year make and model of the vehicle and the mileage OK? because NO DEALER is going to warranty any car that is 10 years or older with excessive miles on it. I don't care how clean the dealer makes a 12 year old car look like new its not going to ever get a warranty. So do not fall for this again.
Only cars that are 3 years old and newer are likely to have any kind of factory warranty. Beyond that NO AFTERMARKET WARRANTIES ARE WORTH A CRAP. never buy one.
Some salesman prey on unsuspecting people like ourselves and say all the right things and when the money comes out this is where you hang on tho that top copy of the contract. Don't let it out of your sight after you sign the original Its a lot harder to change or do anything if you have it in your purse or pocket. If they need to make a copy fine use the one they have for their records.
Here are some things I like to do when test driving used cars. I like to do a cold start test drive after the vehicle has been sitting overnight I like to start it up listen too the engine it should smooth into a nice quiet fast idle and while I look for any clouds of blue smoke I let it warm up for a minute or two and then drive it like I stole it. Any used car that will run drive and stop good cold is probably in great shape. Some cars with transmission problems may not even move for the first 5 to 15 minutes when cold in the morning due to transmission problems.
A car that gets up easily to 55 miles per hour is usually in pretty good shape. I like to test drive a used car for 40 minutes to an hour one of my first questions the night before is if its ok to take a used car to a mechanic and a long test drive the next morning any one who says NO I thank them and move on anyway.
I work out with the mechanic before hand what inspection I want. Since I checked all the power windows and accessories and heater and lights and stuff my self already no reason to pay the mechanic. I ask the mechanic to put the car on a lift and take off the wheels. I then have a quick brake inspection and front end check done to make sure its all in good shape and while under the car the mechanic inspects the frame and underside of the body for any damage or repaired damage He also checks for oil leaks in the front and rear end and transmission then puts the tires on drops the lift and takes the car for a test drive.
that all takes about an hour and 20 minutes or so. If we have any further questions we can do a more comprehensive engine analysis but by this time Im pretty sure what I want to do. following these guidelines is not a perfect answer but its a heck of a lot better than blindly trusting some greedy sob who would rip off his grandma for a few bucks.

When Purchasing a Vehicle From a Car Dealer (Used), How Does the Insurance Info Work?

Shakiki

If I wanted to purchase a used car from a dealer and did NOT have insurance, would I have to purchase insurance BEFORE purchasing a car (ex. have a vehicle insured in my name then use that info for the other vehicle and/or switch the vehicle info in the account) OR do you purchase a vehicle and THEN purchase the insurance?

I'm new to the insurance bit as my car is insured in my stepfather's name and he now lives in a different state so I don't know anything about this stuff! Also, how long do the dealer temp tags last? Thanks!
So.. Before I purchase a car I should register my own car in my name and then get the other car and update the vehicle info?

Answer
You get insurance before you purchase the car. They will ask for information like the VIN number and such. I believe the temp dealer tags last for around a month.

I know for a fact that you need insurance to drive your car off the lot of a dealership. It is illegal to drive without some kind of insurance, and almost all dealerships will make sure you have insurance.

Now, if you buy it from a person, i don't think they would care too much.

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What can i do if i bought a car from another state and had it delivered but never recieved it?

car dealer info image

Dewayne Ma

A family member of mines bought two cars from this car dealer,I told him to find me a car at a certain price and he did and sent me the info on the car so I got approved for a car loan from my bank,and I gave him the check to purchase the car and he supposedly did and had it delivered I asked him and he said it takes no more then a month to have it delivered from California to Washington dc.Its been over a month and I still haven't received my car and ive already paid one car note and about to pay a second one and I don't have a car yet.I called my bank and they said once you give them the check and they deposit it there nothing the bank can do,Any help on what I should do next?

Answer
It sounds like someone is not being honest with you. You have probably been scammed. You should call whoever you gave the money to and find out what is gong on. You should start tracking people down and tracking the car down. You should find out if the check has been cashed or deposited yet. If it hasn't then I would cancel it. Somehow, you have g to get to the bottom of this and get your check back r get your car.

What is the diffrence between a car that has four wheel or all wheel drive?

Michael Ja

I'm a bit confused about that. What really is the difference between 4 wheel drive and all wheel drive? Which drives better through snow & ice? Any info would be great.

PS. I looked at an SUV and on the windshield it had a car dealer stICKER THAT SAID 4X4 BUT when i checked on car fax the same car wa listed as an all wheel drive?!?

Merry Christmas to all of you.

Answer
Merry Christmas to you too!!! Too bad your new vehicle won't fit under the tree, but maybe the seller will put a bow on it for you!

There is a technical difference between AWD and 4WD (4x4), but for most of the buyers, it doesn't matter what they call it. Either system will do just fine in most all conditions except if going off-road or using it on a farm. For typical snow and ice driving, either AWD or 4WD (4x4) is fine.

The problem with car fax and some of the things you may read is that many don't understand the difference so they just say there is no difference.

If you would like to know about the differences, then read on...

AWD- Engine power can go to any one wheel or any combination of the four wheels automatically when a wheel starts to slip on loose surfaces. Power is not equally distributed to all wheels all the time. This is a benefit because most situations do not require all the wheels driving and by reducing the number of drive wheels, you get better gas mileage and better dry road handling characteristics. (It doesn't drive like a truck.) This system requires no driver input and is completely automatic.

4WD- There are two types of 4WD. Part time and Full time. Both of which utilize a 'transfer case' which is like a second transmission that allows for ultra-slow driving or crawling (as off-roaders like to call it).

-Full TIme 4wd. This is an automatic system similar to AWD in that NOT all the wheels have engine power all the time, but only when wheels are slipping. This type of drive arrangement is primarily rear wheel drive, but shifts power to the front wheels as needed.

-Part Time 4wd. You engage the vehicle into 4wd when needed, but the vehicle is usually left in 2wd (which would be rear wheel drive). Depending on the model and options, this is the ONLY type of 4WD system that has the wheels locked together so that all four wheels turn at the same time ALL the time. The transfer case lever or switch is usually labeled 2Hi - 4 Hi - 4 Lo.

If you care to know more about these systems, feel free to email me from my profile page. I can bore you to tears with discussions of axle and center differentials, axle and drive ratios and all the technical jargon that comes with it.

Happy New Year!

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How do you respond when car dealers say KBB and Edmunds are just guides?

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thejbexper

I'm trying to negotiate a used car deal, and it seems every car dealer in my area prices their cars significantly higher than KBB or Edmunds. When I bring up them, they say those are just guides and don't mean anything. What am I supposed to say to that to get them closer to their values? I mean KBB and Edmunds aren't based on nothing. That's what most people base their negotiations on.

Answer
KBB, Edmunds, and NADA guides do more to muddy up the waters than any other info source out there. Yes, they are guides, and that is all.

We have a saying in the car business - If you want that price, Call Mr. Kelly and see if he will sell it to you.

The problems with those guides is they do not reflect accurately the local markets, or adapt quickly to changing conditions. They give averages based on past sales, but those averages may change dramatically before the guides can update.

Example - Cash for Clunkers took a lot of cheap cars off the road. A car that used to be $2000 at auction is now upwards of $3000. Cheap cars are hard to get and dealers are paying a premium for them so they have something to sell. But KBB would never know that. Or when they do, it'll be about 3 months form now when things have adjusted agian.

Heres another example - Right now, in Lake Tahoe they are getting snow like crazy. If you have a used Subaru or 4wd truck, you can name your price. There will be a vast difference in the price of an Imprezza in Tahoe, as compared to one in Arizona. But looking at KBB you would never know it.

Use the guides as just that, guides. Do your own market research. Looka t autotrader or your local advertisements to see what the averages are on the car you are interested in.

Ultimately, the best deal is one where you and the seller agree on a price that is fair for both of you, and a transaction is conducted. Everything else is just practice.

What can i do if i bought a car from another state and had it delivered but never recieved it?

Dewayne Ma

A family member of mines bought two cars from this car dealer,I told him to find me a car at a certain price and he did and sent me the info on the car so I got approved for a car loan from my bank,and I gave him the check to purchase the car and he supposedly did and had it delivered I asked him and he said it takes no more then a month to have it delivered from California to Washington dc.Its been over a month and I still haven't received my car and ive already paid one car note and about to pay a second one and I don't have a car yet.I called my bank and they said once you give them the check and they deposit it there nothing the bank can do,Any help on what I should do next?

Answer
It sounds like someone is not being honest with you. You have probably been scammed. You should call whoever you gave the money to and find out what is gong on. You should start tracking people down and tracking the car down. You should find out if the check has been cashed or deposited yet. If it hasn't then I would cancel it. Somehow, you have g to get to the bottom of this and get your check back r get your car.

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