Whats wrong with my headlights on my car?

me me me m

i have a 1991 camaro with a 305 v8 in it. my lights wont work my fan on my car stoped working the otherday my daddy fixed it. because the wires came un-taped but idk whats wrong with them. can some one help me.

Answer
Could use a little more info.

May be a fuse or relay bad or more bad wiring. Check your fuses and relays
.

how do you install car headlights with relay?

Emmanuel G

Answer
Here's what I found on wikiHow.com. This should work for all cars and trucks.

Before getting started, you will need these things:

Car
Head Lights
Wire
Electrical Tape
Relay (see step 2 for info!)
Light Bulbs
Switch
Fuses
Mounting Brackets
Hardware to attached brackets and lights.
Wire Strippers
Wire Nuts.

If you are replacing existing lights, skip steps 4-10.

1.Purchase needed materials (listed at bottom of page). If replacing existing units, see tips.
2. Remove the lights from the box and check their amp rating. Get a switch of suitable rating. If a switch of equal or higher ratings can't be found, you will need a relay (see below).
3. Use brackets to mount them in the desired location.
4. Locate a convient place in the vehicle to mount the switch for the lights.
5. Mount the switch in the vehicle.
6. Locate a source of power under the hood that does not directly attach the wires to the battery. (One some vehicles, the headlight circuit may do.)
7. If you found a switch of the needed rating above, connect as follows: source to switch, switch to lights, lights to source. Skip to Step 11.
8. Mount the relay somewhere under the hood.
9. Attach the Light circuit to the "Load" side of the relay (some relays may call this something else). Run wire from power source's Hot supply to one of the relays load terminals. Connect the relays other load terminal to the light closet to it. Connect the remaining connection on the light to one of the connections on the other light. Connect second lights remaining connection to the negative side of the power source.
10. Connect the switch. Run wire from a power source to one of the "Control" termainals on the relay. Connect the other termainal to the switch. Connect the remaining switch termainal to the negative of the power source.
11. Install bulbs.
12. Start car and test. If selected sources fuse blows, replace and try connecting to another source.
13. If they work, proceed. If not check connections.
14. Cover all joints with electrical tape to ensure water tightness.
15. Close hood and use.


Warnings :
Electrocution hazard.
This project is not recommended to people with a lack of knowledge of electronics and electrical systems in cars.

Remember to recycle the packaging.

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My car isn't starting up correctly... hesistates when I crank it.?

Kyle H

I recently had a new drive belt put in my 2001 toyota celica. A few days later my car didn't start in the morning. It doesn't seem to be the battery as when I just have the battery on it's fine. But when I go to crank it it hesitates or kind of coughs and then finally the engine turns. Could it be my starter or what? I've had so much money dumped into this car, way more than it's worth and it's just one problem right after the other.
To answer some questions... the guy called it a drive belt and listed that way on my receipts, I'm not sure which belt it is but he said if it snaps then my car will stop and I'll have to get it towed so it's very imporant, I'm thinking the serpentine. I've had a check engine light on forever that they supposedly fixed but 4 days later it came back on and it still hasn't been fixed b/c of 2 shops and a dealership and tons of money laer the damn light still pops on. Occassionally I smell a slight smell of gas when i get out of my car esp. when I have to drive on the freeway. My batter is about 2 years old. THey also suggested before along with the drive belt to get the timing tensioner chain fixed. The lights get a little dimmer when the car is cranking then go back to normal afer it cranks. When I rev it the headlights stay the same brightness. It seems though that day by day it starts to crank a lot easier.

Answer
You need to supply more accurate info. Your "kind of coughs" throws everyone into a "fuel, compression, backfire, spark timing, spark leak, valve timing" mode that just confuses the issue.

If you mean a '(valve) timing belt' when you said 'drive belt' those are kind of hard to screw up, but it's possible on some cars (adjust ignition timing when finished - some cars have automatic timing features). If it's installed wrong, it usually won't start at all. If it's worn out, cranking will be erratic. No crank, slow crank, fast crank, slow again, starts by running rough, then runs fine -- or not. Your problem may be that you have a worn timing belt, and it just happened to act up just after you had some work done (if you didn't get a new timing belt). Timing belts are not an easy fix, figure a few hundred dollars, especially on your sporty car.

When you say, "I just have the battery on" I think you mean "when I just have the radio on without the engine running." Do the horn and radio die and headlights go out or very dim when you crank the engine, or it cranks slower with the headlights on (or run a power roof)? That's caused by a low battery, old battery, or corroded terminals. Not enough current (amps) available.

If it has the original battery, it's too old. You should get a new battery, even if you just temporarily swap one from another car to test. If it's a replacement battery, did you ever run it down (leave the lights on)? Again, swap to test. Be careful, take your time, have good lighting, don't smoke (seriously - batteries can give off explosive gas; exploding a sulfuric acid-filled battery can really ruin your day) and check polarity at every step. You can cause a <lot> of damage to your car - and injury to people - by mishandling a car battery or its polarity. See link below for instructions.

If you start the car, but cannot disconnect the battery connection without it stalling immediately, the alternator's not charging, or may only charge at high rpm's. Loose belt is a cheap fix.

If it already has a newer battery . . .

You may have corrosion around the battery terminals. Outside temperature and humidity can affect cranking speed (one hour it's fine, the next, it's completely dead, then later, works fine again). If that's the case, this paragraph may help. Have someone else start the car while you <carefully> wedge a sharp edge of metal (short flathead screwdriver, fingernail file, etc.) between the battery post and its clamp (then try the other post/clamp) to create a good temporary connection. If it cranks normally now, each post and clamp must be cleaned. If any of these connections have ever been replaced (new battery clamp, for example) that's always the first place to look. If that didn't help, follow both large battery cables (ignore smaller ones) to the next connections if you can, and see if they look corroded or odd. Ditto for the large cable on the starter motor. The terminals affected are battery positive post and bolt, clamp, cable, other end of cable, clamp, starter terminal, solenoid terminal, solenoid armature (switch part), connection to starter motor brush, carbon brush, starter armature, starter brush, brush connection to ground, ground connection of starter, chassis, clamp and bolt, chassis ground cable, other end of cable, battery clamp, post, ground side of battery. The ignition switch is not part of the high-amperage circuit; your key merely powers the windings on the solenoid, which then does the high-current switching. Any of these can corrode and cause the starter to crank slowly or not at all. Eyeball as many as you can and clean any that look odd or you can reach. Always securely disconnect the ground (minus) terminal at the battery FIRST before doing any electrical work. You'll have to reset the clock and radio stations when you're all done. Clean with a wire brush or toothbrush, baking soda in water, wear goggles or glasses and old clothes. Corrosion flicking off the brush in your eye will send you to a doctor. On your clothes; well, that's not too pretty, either.

If the engine cranks slowly, but then fires and runs normally, your new belt may be the one that turns the alternator to charge the battery. It's a good sign if it looks 'flat' while the engine is running. If it looks 'blurry' it's loose or stretched from being used (that's what new belts do shortly after being installed - don't get new belts just before that cross-country trip) and the battery isn't being charged properly because the alternator belt is slipping. Go back to the same place and have it adjusted (it'd better be free). If the belt is a 'serpentine' belt, it may be self-adjusting, but ask the mechanic.

The alternator is a round box, flat on the front and back sides, around 6" round and 6" deep, usually grey, may have little fan blades right behind the pulley. It may be easy or difficult to spot, but it's always turned by a belt, and those are always on the 'front' of the engine (which may be on the side of the engine compartment).

If that's not it, and you have over 100,000 miles on it, (actually related to how many times you've started the engine than actual miles on the vehicle) you may need new carbon brushes for the starter motor. This failure will be easy to spot because it's predictable -- one minute the engine cranks fine, then later, won't crank at all. Waiting 1/2 hour or tapping on the starter motor (or heating it in the winter with a light bulb) will cause it to work fine again (I've owned two cars that had this problem). Brushes are designed to wear out, but may (or may not) be easy to replace, depending on the car (working on your sporty Celica might be ugly, but it is a Toyota . . . ). If you're handy with tools, you may be able to find starter motor brushes for $10 at an auto electric shop and do the work yourself. Take photos and notes as you disassemble pieces if you're squeamish. Disconnect the ground (-) terminal on the battery before doing this work. The alternative is to replace the starter motor - figure $125 if you do it, twice that if you have someone else do it. Get a Haynes manual for your model and save a lot of $$$.

Starters have a starter solenoid (I don't believe your car has a starter relay -- those are found on larger US cars). If the solenoid gets flaky, you'll only hear a 'click' when you twist the key. Holding the key will just burn out the solenoid windings. 'Clicking' it over and over again may finally get it to crank and start normally. It will get worse and soon fail. If so, solenoids are not expensive. Getting to it (that big blob sticking out of the side of the starter motor) may or may not be easy, depending on the car.

If you're going to work on your car, get a Haynes manual. The rest are either far too expensive or won't be much help for anything more complicated than changing lamps.

Change Toyota Corrola headlights?

rapidshare

I'm having a hard time taking out the headlights.
It is a 1990 Toyota Corrola 4 door sedan, but I don't need to anymore I just changed em.

Answer
all depends on what year the car is need more info

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Are there any headlights on different moddle cars that are interchangable with a 2003 dodge stratus sxt coupe?

car headlights info image

Is there any other cars that have headlight that will fit on a 2003 dodge stratus sxt coupe? The headlights for it are really exspensive and i want to avoid paying to much.

Answer
Contact a local Used parts yard they will have the interchange info U want.

How do I hide the scratch on my new headlight purchase?

quest love

I have purchased a new headlight online. But I has been scratched when I placed it. I wonder is there any chemicals or any cheapest way to fix it.

Answer
chemicals will not dissolve away a scratch - a scratch is "missing material" - you can either try and find a way of filling it OR polish down the surrounding material to try and disguise the scratch.

Is the scratch in a metal / glass / plastic part of the headlight. Do you mean a light that you fix on your head - eg: for potholing / caving, or a thing you plonk on the front of your car?

Not really enough info to know how to guide you, even the part where you say "But I has been scratched when I placed it." isn't especially helpful.

Mark

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What is the best way to install an amp into a 98 honda accord sedan?

car headlights info image

punk_rock_

I need very detailed instructions on how to install an amplifier for a set of 12" subs. I still have the stock radio that came with the car and I have a switch for it to pass through so i can turn it off when I am not running the car. diagrams would help too. I would prefer not to fry my cars electrical system or myself trying to install it again. thanks.

Answer
I have 2 things to say to you..."Do your HOMEWORK and to plan out your system."
I do also have a 98 accord. It is a v6 coupe and I love it.

Check these sites out...it is a good reference.

http://www.bcae1.com/
http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/rftech/rfâ¦
http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthreadâ¦
http://www.termpro.com/articles/articlesâ¦

- Also check this out http://www.youtube.com and all related videos...Look for the guy in the blue collared shirt. Type âcar audio systemsâ in the search engine. He gives a lot of very good info.

If your headlight dims with the bass notes, the âBIG 3â might work. If not an H.O. alternator will be needed, or else be prepared to pour a lot of $$$ for batteries.

This site explains the "BIG 3" upgrades.

http://forum.sounddomain.com/ubbthreads.â¦

I've designed my car for SQ (Sound Quality) not SPL (Sound Pressure Level) my imaging is very good. The bass sounds as if it is up front and my 12 inch sub (picture as shown) in the trunk. I LOVE how it all worked out.

GOOD LUCK and have funâ¦

List of items for my ride:
Head Unit: Alpine DVA - 9861
Processor(s):
- EQ (by: Clarion - EQS746)
- EpiCenter (by: Audio Control)
- Apex (by: Kove Audio)
Amp: JL Audio 300/4 and 500/1 (constant 800 watts)
Cap: One Rockford Fosgate1 farad Cap
Front: MB Quart 216
Rear: Boston Acoustics (6x9) SX65
Sub: 1 Eclipse 12" Alum. Dual 4 ohm VC
Battery: DieHard AGM Battery, Platinum P-4 - Group Size 34/78DT
Alternator: 220amp by: PowerBastard.com

1/0 ga wire to D-block
Using a dual fused D-block in the engine bay
- ANL 100 amp fuse (used for H.O. Alternator)
- ANL 150 amp fuse (used as power wire to amp)
- âBIG 3â upgrade

Please post a commentâ¦THX

How do people know what year a car is just by looking?

Tomiker

I mean without looking at the paper work. Do some people just know by the design of the car?

I would make the worse eye witness. All I can say it something like 4 door suv and maybe the brand if I can see the logo.

Answer
short answer: yes

if they are antiques:
most of those ppl who know are petrol heads who research about the models that interest them (quite a lot). these cars are usually valuable which makes ppl wna buy them. but even for less enthusiastic ppl it is not that hard to remember certain designs like 1959 Cadillac deville or eldorado bcos it looks so different than the rest of the designs of that time or even today. even a few yrs makes a huge difference. i mean look at the 1954 Cadillac coupe/deville. bcos some ppl spend so much time looking at them they remember the car when they see it. also certain famous ppl might drive a model/make which makes it easier to remember for some. Elvis drove a pink 1954 Cadillac. some models however, change their designs but keep at least 1 thing the same about them. look at this picture http://www.avonhill.com/thumbnails/classic/1959_Morgan_Plus4.jpeg then look at this picture: http://saloncars.com/catalog/images/M4-4%20(1).jpg. the 1st one is from 1959, the second one is from 2008 (yes there are companies that still build cars like that) anyway u can notice that at least the grill is the same and only one company makes that type of grill: morgan. if ppl like a certain make/model they are more likely to know more about it.

for newer cars:
most new cars do look more alike (partially bcos a lot of them are built in the same factories). ppl hv a much harder time guessing the date of a regular (and not very valuable) car such as this: http://www.automedia.com/NewCarBuyersGuide2008/photos/2008/Toyota/Corolla/Sedan/2008_Toyota_Corolla_ext_1.jpg and this: http://images.myride.com/images/vehicle/2005/Toyota/Corolla/oem/05.corolla.5_(400x300).jpg. this car has been around for a while and not much has been done to it. but since not much has been done to it ppl can remember what model/make it is: toyota corolla, but they will hv a hard time guessing the date bcos there is a dif of 3 yrs between these two and visible changes are almost not there. the grill, headlights/headlamps and other lights are usually and easy way of identifying a make/model. look at this: http://magicoftucson.com/img/car-show-ferrari-taillights.jpg. those are a ferrari's taillights/backlights and u can know bcos they nvr change them and its like that on almost all their cars and most other manufacturers hv a dif style. now look at this: http://www.dtmpower.net/forum/attachments/e46-3-series/19354d1042516110-bmw-e46-2dr-kidney-grill-99-present-oem-new-grill2.jpg every new bmw has the same grill (basically) which makes them easy to identify even if u dont look at the badge/logo.
i believe the value also has a lot to do with how much ppl remember the model/make. most ppl who are into cars will recognize this: http://media.new-and-used-cars.info/media/1/20090726-Lamborghini-Murcielago-supercar.jpg bcos its rare and valuable.
another way of remembering cars is by the films they appear in. the best example of this is aston martin cars in james bond films. http://momentumoffailure.wordpress.com/2009/05/13/classic-car-james-bonds-aston-martin-db5-then-and-now/
a less conventional way is too look at the number plate which in some places actually tells u a little about the car. it can tell u where it comes from (especially if there is a large amount of that number plate in a certain region, this applies to cheap and local cars which are only produced in a certain place) also some number plates in one way or another can tell u the year but this is not really what most ppl who know cars wud do.

the absolute best way to know more about models/makes is to get interested in them, look them up on the internet, then when u c 1 in the street, it will bring back memories of what u saw on ur computer

i hope i helped.

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