alyk
I'm doing a Report and I don't know which website to go on anyone got any ideas? plz help me!
do u know a good WEBSITE to find good hybrids pros and cons???? (pro's are good things and con's are bad)
WEBSITES only plz.
Answer
Insurance is about the same as a regular car.
Maintenance is about the same as a regular car - use your favorite mechanic or DIY.
Same gasoline as a regular car...
Depending on model, many hybrids are holding high resale values (mainly the fuel-economy hybrids as opposed to the power hybrids).
Pros:
* Depending on where you live, tax incentives (income tax credit for US federal, some states or Canadian provinces offer income tax credits/deductions or sales tax reductions),or single-occupant HOV lane privilages (CA, VA, FL, NY), or reduced tolls (NY) or free parking...
* better HP and acceleration than a comparable car
* better (lower) emissions than a comparable car
* better fuel economy than a comparable car
* own a neat techy car
* long warranty (depending on model, the hybrid battery or system is warrantied in the US a minimum of 8 years/80,000 miles, up to the AT-PZEV models in CA-emission states out to 10 years/150,000 miles, and it is NOT pro-rated but a full coverage.)
* you do not plug it in (charges off of the gasoline engine and recapurted kinetic energy while braking)
Cons:
* slightly higher initial purchase price
* own a neat techy car (should you need unscheduled maintenance (break down), you're mainly stuck paying dealer rates)
* many ill-informed people stopping you and asking questions about your car, telling you untruths about your own car, or even telling you how stupid you were for buying it...
* you cannot plug it in
Unfortunately, not all hybrids are created equal... There are different hybrid technologies, depending on manufacturer. Even among the same manufacturer, you can find one model tuned for performance (power and acceleration) with only a slight fuel efficiency improvement, compared to another for fuel efficiency and emissions. (See the Honda Accord Hybrid vs. Honda Civic Hybrid, or the Lexus models compared to their sister Toyota models...)
http://www.hybridcenter.org/
http://www.hybridcars.com/
http://www.greenhybrid.com/
http://www.cleanmpg.com/
http://www.mixedpower.com/
(PS: be sure to use a spell-checker and grammar-checker when submitting your project. "plz" and "u" is fine for IM, but is not proper English and can cost you some points on your assignment (and the disdain of many people outside of your friends).)
Insurance is about the same as a regular car.
Maintenance is about the same as a regular car - use your favorite mechanic or DIY.
Same gasoline as a regular car...
Depending on model, many hybrids are holding high resale values (mainly the fuel-economy hybrids as opposed to the power hybrids).
Pros:
* Depending on where you live, tax incentives (income tax credit for US federal, some states or Canadian provinces offer income tax credits/deductions or sales tax reductions),or single-occupant HOV lane privilages (CA, VA, FL, NY), or reduced tolls (NY) or free parking...
* better HP and acceleration than a comparable car
* better (lower) emissions than a comparable car
* better fuel economy than a comparable car
* own a neat techy car
* long warranty (depending on model, the hybrid battery or system is warrantied in the US a minimum of 8 years/80,000 miles, up to the AT-PZEV models in CA-emission states out to 10 years/150,000 miles, and it is NOT pro-rated but a full coverage.)
* you do not plug it in (charges off of the gasoline engine and recapurted kinetic energy while braking)
Cons:
* slightly higher initial purchase price
* own a neat techy car (should you need unscheduled maintenance (break down), you're mainly stuck paying dealer rates)
* many ill-informed people stopping you and asking questions about your car, telling you untruths about your own car, or even telling you how stupid you were for buying it...
* you cannot plug it in
Unfortunately, not all hybrids are created equal... There are different hybrid technologies, depending on manufacturer. Even among the same manufacturer, you can find one model tuned for performance (power and acceleration) with only a slight fuel efficiency improvement, compared to another for fuel efficiency and emissions. (See the Honda Accord Hybrid vs. Honda Civic Hybrid, or the Lexus models compared to their sister Toyota models...)
http://www.hybridcenter.org/
http://www.hybridcars.com/
http://www.greenhybrid.com/
http://www.cleanmpg.com/
http://www.mixedpower.com/
(PS: be sure to use a spell-checker and grammar-checker when submitting your project. "plz" and "u" is fine for IM, but is not proper English and can cost you some points on your assignment (and the disdain of many people outside of your friends).)
Honda car electrical problem - Desperate!!! - Alternator undercharge indicator flashing on battery checker?
Host
I have an electrical problem with some component on the car but can't figure out what it is.
I have changed out many things to solve it, but it always just comes back to bite me.
I rely on this car for my work and it's my only income.
I have this battery checker that has 3 LED's that shows whether the alternator is undercharging or overcharging or OK.
Undercharge: Right and Middle lights on.
OK charge: Right light on only.
(It has never gone to overcharge)
Brand new items (All installed within 1.5 weeks of now)
All power cables and proper connectors (4 guage and 6 guage where needed)
Battery, Alternator, Belts, Wires, Plugs, Starter.
Turn on car. Turns on fine.
Go into drive. Drive. Drives fine. No flickering of lights.
I drive around 35 - 45 mph, then when I brake down so that the rev's are at 1,000 RPM's or a little higher, the Undercharging lights will blink between each other fast with the car's pulse / beating rate of the firing of sparks in the engine I presume. When I go from Drive to Neutral, the flashing does not occur until I've gone up above 2,000 or so, then decelerate down to 1,000, then it starts again.
This problem started today after I noticed the cap and roater were not tightly bolted to each other by a very slight hairline, slight gap between the two, and that one bolt is missing towards the front. Tightened them up a little more. Problem started.
Now, leading up to this problem, for a month or so I've been using the alternator checker tool and it has been useful in pointing out possible problems (all of the new items listed above). It was first the alternator that went. Sluggish steering, acceleration. Found out it was the Voltage Regulator in the alternator. Replaced the alternator myself. Worked like a dream. It was like a new car. Then, next day, the battery light flashes. Timed pulses, and sometimes flickering weirdly. Bright or hazed flickering. I decided to change my battery out then, because the performance diminished once again. Then, same problem. Battery flashing. Started changing out the wire to the alternator, 4 guage. Got better in performance. Problem came back again but not as bad. Changed out the starter wire, same thing. Came back. Then started messing with ground wires. As far as I know now all ground wires are ok.
The only one I have a question about is this thread and bolt just sitting there on the alternator. There isn't a ground wire to it, but people told me it wasn't needed. Theres a power wire bolted on, and there's a wiring harness plugged into the back.
Each time I have replaced something, the problem stops for a bit, then comes back. The battery light used to pulsate here and there, and sometimes for a good minute until I went from Drive to Neutral, then it would be "OK" for the alternator. And, the Middle and Right alternator checker lights would switch between each other. One on, one off, and would switch depending whether I was in drive or neutral, and sometimes had a mind of their own, and would switch only when I pressed on the gas, and also sometimes didn't do anything but stay on "OK" (Right light), and sometimes will just stay on the middle light, with the right light on. See this is troubling, because there IS NO DESCRIPTION ABOUT JUST HAVING THE MIDDLE LIGHT ON. It's at least 2 lights on that creates a reading, not just 1. Middle and Right means undercharge. Right means ok. Left light and something else means overcharged. Overcharged light has NEVER come on.
So it came from the old problem to the new problem. I drive, then I slow down, as soon as I slow down to 1,000 rpm's both of the undercharge indicator lights pulsate fast like christmas lights between each other. This makes absolutely no sense, and so I have no other idea as to what the problem is except that it might be the Cap and Roater somehow, but I am afraid I am spending way too much and will spend more uselessly and have the same exact problem if I get a new cap/roter.
I re-grounded the transmission to the car, yes I scraped paint away with a wire whisk. Grounded thoroughly.
Another idea has been that maybe my cooling fan has a short in it somehow. The battery light, without hitting bumps in the road or switching gears or anything having to do with me, would come on, then come on again, around the time frame that the cooling fan goes on and off (15 seconds).
Another reason that the 2 lights would be "undercharged" or randomly situated was when I tested the gas pedal and the brake. Pushing on and off between very fast like. It would make the lights flash between eac hother, but only when I did pressing. Now when I test it, that doesn't happen at all. So weird.
I have taken it to multiple mechanics that have garages, and some back yard mechanics that are ase certified. They are all stumped much more that I am.
Please help me diagnose this problem.
Answer
Well, I'm no Honda expert, but I can try. First thing to check with alternator problems is belt tension or condition. A worn or loose belt can cause the alternator to slip under loads and you can experience voltage spikes. You said you replaced the alternator, but you should also replace the belt if you haven't already.
I should also explain that the battery light does not mean the battery is low or bad. All it means is the alternator is not producing output (doesn't matter what the battery voltage is). It should really be an alternator light instead of a battery light.
So if you replaced the WHOLE alternator (not just the voltage regulator), then I would think this is some kind of regulation problem. Now the voltage regulator is inside the alternator from what I can tell, so it takes a signal from the PCM that tells it how much current to produce. So one possibility is the wiring from the PCM to the voltage regulator is damaged.
Looking at the diagram, it looks like Honda is using some sort of goofy current-sensing electrical load detector (ELD) to help control the alternator output (it's some stupid device to improve fuel economy by like 0.5% or something). Basically this is supposed to sense how much current everything in the car is using and then tell the alternator to make that exact amount. Heaven forbid if it ever made a little extra voltage to actually charge something and wasted a few more drops of gas.
Anyway, it seems that if the load detector was faulty and underestimating the amount of current the car was using, the alternator output would be too low without considering any other regulation mechanisms (is maintaining constant voltage really that bad Honda?). Since the car seems to be adapting to the improvements in voltage and current you've been making, I like this theory. On some of the other cars you get a check engine light with a P1298 code, but you didn't say if you had any codes or check engine light. So you might try changing the ELD. I think it's in the fuse box and has a metal bus bar running through it from the alternator fuse. Check that 80A fuse (#41) and make sure it's good. You should also check fuse 15 under the dash (alternator speed sensor fuse?).
Here's the wiring diagram so you can see what I'm talking about: http://www.revbase.com/BBBMOTOR/Wd/DownloadPdf?id=1a121b69-ac02-4e4a-82b4-044ed8489237
Video about replacing the ELD: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qYVWmQE5tDk
P.S. Next time remember to put your car model and year. Luckily I was smart enough to find your other question with the info. You should also buy an actual voltmeter so you can report actual figures instead of just describing how many ways two lights are blinking. Throw that thing out and buy one that tells you voltage: http://www.amazon.com/Equus-3721-Battery-Charging-Monitor/dp/B000EVWDU0
Well, I'm no Honda expert, but I can try. First thing to check with alternator problems is belt tension or condition. A worn or loose belt can cause the alternator to slip under loads and you can experience voltage spikes. You said you replaced the alternator, but you should also replace the belt if you haven't already.
I should also explain that the battery light does not mean the battery is low or bad. All it means is the alternator is not producing output (doesn't matter what the battery voltage is). It should really be an alternator light instead of a battery light.
So if you replaced the WHOLE alternator (not just the voltage regulator), then I would think this is some kind of regulation problem. Now the voltage regulator is inside the alternator from what I can tell, so it takes a signal from the PCM that tells it how much current to produce. So one possibility is the wiring from the PCM to the voltage regulator is damaged.
Looking at the diagram, it looks like Honda is using some sort of goofy current-sensing electrical load detector (ELD) to help control the alternator output (it's some stupid device to improve fuel economy by like 0.5% or something). Basically this is supposed to sense how much current everything in the car is using and then tell the alternator to make that exact amount. Heaven forbid if it ever made a little extra voltage to actually charge something and wasted a few more drops of gas.
Anyway, it seems that if the load detector was faulty and underestimating the amount of current the car was using, the alternator output would be too low without considering any other regulation mechanisms (is maintaining constant voltage really that bad Honda?). Since the car seems to be adapting to the improvements in voltage and current you've been making, I like this theory. On some of the other cars you get a check engine light with a P1298 code, but you didn't say if you had any codes or check engine light. So you might try changing the ELD. I think it's in the fuse box and has a metal bus bar running through it from the alternator fuse. Check that 80A fuse (#41) and make sure it's good. You should also check fuse 15 under the dash (alternator speed sensor fuse?).
Here's the wiring diagram so you can see what I'm talking about: http://www.revbase.com/BBBMOTOR/Wd/DownloadPdf?id=1a121b69-ac02-4e4a-82b4-044ed8489237
Video about replacing the ELD: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qYVWmQE5tDk
P.S. Next time remember to put your car model and year. Luckily I was smart enough to find your other question with the info. You should also buy an actual voltmeter so you can report actual figures instead of just describing how many ways two lights are blinking. Throw that thing out and buy one that tells you voltage: http://www.amazon.com/Equus-3721-Battery-Charging-Monitor/dp/B000EVWDU0
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