kudos4me07
Okay Im in the market for a new car audio system and Im looking at all these features and I dont understand what any of it means. THD, dB, Frequency response, Hz, voice coil and olms, what does all of this stuff mean and what are the better options.
Answer
Honestly, the best way to explain it is to have you dig around on http://electronics.howstuffworks.com/
There is a ton of info on how the stuff works on that site. 99% of audio equiptment is sold on brand name and gimmicks, not sound quality. If you understand how it works and what those mean, you can get a much better understanding of what is important.
Just some broad definitions though:
THD=total harmonic distortion, which is the amount of distortion in the signal from the amp.
dB=decibles, which is a logorythmic sonic energy measurement. Basically it tells you how loud something is.
Frequency response= how accurate a speaker is reproducing a sound.
Hz= hertz, or the frequency something is vibrating at. For instance, bass ranges from 15-150 or so Hz, while super high treble goes all the way to 20,000 hz and beyond.
a Voice coil is a physical piece of a speaker that makes the magnetic field to drive the speaker.
Ohms are a measure of electrical resistance. common speaker ohms are 2,4,6 and 8. when running them in series and parallel circuits they can go into different resistances, depending on how you wire it. (ie: 2 4 ohm speakers in parallel = 2 ohms, but 2 4 ohm speakers in series=8 ohms)
also: Rick is wrong. The more ohms the more resistance, not the other way around. Low ohms means that your amp will have to put out a hell of a lot more power. Low ohms means efficient, but also means high drain. (think trying to pump through a straw, then a firehose. The firehose needs a way bigger pump)
Honestly, the best way to explain it is to have you dig around on http://electronics.howstuffworks.com/
There is a ton of info on how the stuff works on that site. 99% of audio equiptment is sold on brand name and gimmicks, not sound quality. If you understand how it works and what those mean, you can get a much better understanding of what is important.
Just some broad definitions though:
THD=total harmonic distortion, which is the amount of distortion in the signal from the amp.
dB=decibles, which is a logorythmic sonic energy measurement. Basically it tells you how loud something is.
Frequency response= how accurate a speaker is reproducing a sound.
Hz= hertz, or the frequency something is vibrating at. For instance, bass ranges from 15-150 or so Hz, while super high treble goes all the way to 20,000 hz and beyond.
a Voice coil is a physical piece of a speaker that makes the magnetic field to drive the speaker.
Ohms are a measure of electrical resistance. common speaker ohms are 2,4,6 and 8. when running them in series and parallel circuits they can go into different resistances, depending on how you wire it. (ie: 2 4 ohm speakers in parallel = 2 ohms, but 2 4 ohm speakers in series=8 ohms)
also: Rick is wrong. The more ohms the more resistance, not the other way around. Low ohms means that your amp will have to put out a hell of a lot more power. Low ohms means efficient, but also means high drain. (think trying to pump through a straw, then a firehose. The firehose needs a way bigger pump)
Selling a car with aftermarket speakers/sub liability question?
Alex
I installed aftermarket speakers/amp/sub in my car, as well as bass transducers.
If i sell the car without removing said electronics, can I be liable for their failure in the future?
For example, if my connections fail or break and damage the car (or somehow injure someone) can I be held responsible?
It works but is far from a professional installation. Do I just need to disclose the info to the buyer, or do I have them sign a waiver/form?
Answer
the car is what it is.
IMO you are no more reliable for the failure of aftermarket electronics than you are for the engine or transmission.
If the prospective buyer isn't comfortable with the electronics in the car it's their job to walk away.
the car is what it is.
IMO you are no more reliable for the failure of aftermarket electronics than you are for the engine or transmission.
If the prospective buyer isn't comfortable with the electronics in the car it's their job to walk away.
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