Juan Valde
It is about 2am and I am falling asleep. Unfortuantly I have to deliver papers by 6am. Hoping that they would already be at the pickup spot, I head out. They are not there. On my way back to the house, I fall asleep and hit a parked car. Being so late & not the best of neighborhoods I didn't want to start banging on doors. I leave my car where it is and start walking to a pay phone. As I am walking through yards to shorten the distance, I pass out. 3 hours later I wake to find that my car and the other wrecked vehicle have been towed. I decide to call it a night and head home. Next day I wake up and go to the scene of the accident. I leave all of my insurance info and my phone # with the owners of the car. I then go to city hall to give the police a copy of what I gave the other car owners. 2 different times I was told that they didn't need it. Last night my neigbor tells me that the police came by my house and were banging on the door & shining lights in the windows. What should I do?
Answer
You are already guilty of leaving the scene of an accident. You should have called the police right then and there to make sure they had the proper information for you to exchange with the owner of the car. You didn't. They will probably keep your car impounded until you go to the police station and turn yourself in. Once they verify your information, they will more than likely give you a traffic ticket and a court date to appear.
You are already guilty of leaving the scene of an accident. You should have called the police right then and there to make sure they had the proper information for you to exchange with the owner of the car. You didn't. They will probably keep your car impounded until you go to the police station and turn yourself in. Once they verify your information, they will more than likely give you a traffic ticket and a court date to appear.
buyin a car?
EDDIE V
buying a car and i need to know what are the procedures to buying a car owner to owner? (paying cash)
Answer
Finding out what's wrong with that used car before you buy
Everyone buying a used car should get an Experian AutoCheck Vehicle History Report, they get data from a substantial number of dealers and aftermarket repair shops, nearly 5,000 sources. A mechanic can put the car on a lift and instantly spot previous crash damage, hidden frame damage, corrosion, and fluid leaks. But your mechanic can't tell you if your car title has been branded as a flooded vehicle, salvaged, junked, rebuilt, stolen, or passed through a salvage auction. Most mechanics overlook airbags. You can only tell how many owners that car had or where it's been with a history report, not just by looking at the car. This is not the time to 2nd guess. Unfortunately there are no clear laws if you sign an "As Is" paper. Any used car can have a bad past, Mercedes, Lexus, Honda or Toyota. Some municipalities don't supply accident report info, that's why you still need to have a mechanic look at it. If the police never made a report, it won't show up in the AutoCheck Vehicle History Report.
People ask "What's the Blue Book value of my trade-in?" The Blue Book value of your car is the market value listed in the Kelley Blue Book. Many people spell it wrong as Kelly Blue Book or Kelly's Blue Book or Kellys Blue Book or even NADA Blue Book or KBB. KBB started from a family owned used car business that bought trade-ins from auto dealers and used their internally generated list of used car prices to inform dealers how much the car was worth. They became trusted industry insiders and appraisers of car values. This led to Kelley Blue Book, named after the social register, called a blue book. The rest is history. KBB supplies used car prices to most car pricing sites. Dealers laugh when you tell them you know the Kelley Blue Book Value of your trade in. I think blue book car prices show trade-in values lower than other sources, which falsely leads you to accept less for your car then it is worth. Use other sites in addition to Kelly Blue Book to price cars. Most car dealers use the yellow NADA book to price used cars.
Start Working On The Seller
Have your partner be negative, pointing out every little item that erodes away at the seller's asking price, and confidence. A great tactic with huge psychological impact is to rub your finger over every major scratch or dimple, and shake your head no in disappointment. The car dealers use this all the time, so learn from the best. You don't have to say a word, the seller reads it right off your face, and you've set him up for the low ball offer. Have your partner write down all damage.
Ask for the maintenance records. Bet he'll have nothing at all. This is why I tell you to save every record, and oil change receipt in a notebook. Just add each new one to the end, and you have a nice history record. Now buyers of your car years later can't say you did not take good care of your car. Ask if the car has been in a wreck, staring them right in the eyes waiting for their answer. If the answer is yes, inspect the area that was repaired, and point out every tiny little flaw in that repair.
Test Drive The Seller's Used Car
Take the seller with you and ask questions when noises pop up. Listen for noises, rattles, or grinding sounds. If you hear rattling in the quarter panels, the car may have been in a wreck. If the car is a manual transmission, see if the shifting is smooth. Ask the seller if the clutch has been replaced, clutches fail after 4-5 years. This sets up the seller for a low ball offer. Most people are unaware that manual transmission vehicles have lower market values than automatic. Check the heater and the A/C, drive it in the daylight when the sun is hottest, to see how the A/C performs. Listen for grinding noises when the A/C kicks in, the bearings in the compressor are worn.
If the car has a voltmeter, make sure the voltage stays at 13.6 volts when the A/C is on. Bring a portable volt meter with you. Not everyone has one, many people do. You can get them for $20. Measure the voltage across the battery terminals with the engine running, and the meter set to DC Voltage. The voltage should be at least 13.6 Volts with the engine running, and no more than 14.8 volts. If it's not, there is a problem with the charging circuit, most likely the alternator, which is a costly component, usually about $150 rebuilt. If the battery is not at least 13.6V with the engine on, the 12V battery will not remain charged, and will die soon.
Drive with the radio on and off. Test the speakers to see if they are cracked. Make sure the CD player works. Take the car on a highway, main streets, and side streets, see if the car loses alignment, or bears to the left or right. See how good the car brakes, drive sharply around some corners, and your companion is writing everything down. Make sure all the seat belts work, that electric seats work, look for missing or burned out bulbs inside and out. If the car has retractable headlights, make sure they pop up and turn on. Make sure the brake lights, reverse lights and directional lights work. Ask the seller when the brake pads were last replaced.
"What kind of research did you do to determine what your car is worth?
Show me your research printouts, I have all mine right here, where's yours?"
I bet the seller has no research may be arrogant and indignant over your offer. They are unaware their asking price is off base, they get infuriated with your "low ball offer", and may refuse to deal with you. They probably need the money, the car is taking up space in their driveway, their wife complains every day as he lets offers slip through his fingers. His pride won't let him sell the car at your price. He'll say, "why don't you buy one of those other cars if they are cheaper? If my car is not worth it, why do you want it at all?" It's their last ditch futile effort to justify their price. He's trying to divert you from the fact that he cannot justify his selling price. Any seller using this strategy has just told you he has no valid research on the value of the car. A seller who knows the market value would say "Here's my printouts from the car pricing sites, my price is in line with accepted standards". Tell him "We like your car, but the research we have shows that it is not worth your asking price", point out all the defects, lack of maintenance records, etc. Tell him the printouts specify a car in good condition. Point out scratches, dings, rust, carpet stains, cracked dash, justification to offer even less than the car pricing printouts. Keep hammering him for his research and justification until you are the clear victor of that debate.
Finding out what's wrong with that used car before you buy
Everyone buying a used car should get an Experian AutoCheck Vehicle History Report, they get data from a substantial number of dealers and aftermarket repair shops, nearly 5,000 sources. A mechanic can put the car on a lift and instantly spot previous crash damage, hidden frame damage, corrosion, and fluid leaks. But your mechanic can't tell you if your car title has been branded as a flooded vehicle, salvaged, junked, rebuilt, stolen, or passed through a salvage auction. Most mechanics overlook airbags. You can only tell how many owners that car had or where it's been with a history report, not just by looking at the car. This is not the time to 2nd guess. Unfortunately there are no clear laws if you sign an "As Is" paper. Any used car can have a bad past, Mercedes, Lexus, Honda or Toyota. Some municipalities don't supply accident report info, that's why you still need to have a mechanic look at it. If the police never made a report, it won't show up in the AutoCheck Vehicle History Report.
People ask "What's the Blue Book value of my trade-in?" The Blue Book value of your car is the market value listed in the Kelley Blue Book. Many people spell it wrong as Kelly Blue Book or Kelly's Blue Book or Kellys Blue Book or even NADA Blue Book or KBB. KBB started from a family owned used car business that bought trade-ins from auto dealers and used their internally generated list of used car prices to inform dealers how much the car was worth. They became trusted industry insiders and appraisers of car values. This led to Kelley Blue Book, named after the social register, called a blue book. The rest is history. KBB supplies used car prices to most car pricing sites. Dealers laugh when you tell them you know the Kelley Blue Book Value of your trade in. I think blue book car prices show trade-in values lower than other sources, which falsely leads you to accept less for your car then it is worth. Use other sites in addition to Kelly Blue Book to price cars. Most car dealers use the yellow NADA book to price used cars.
Start Working On The Seller
Have your partner be negative, pointing out every little item that erodes away at the seller's asking price, and confidence. A great tactic with huge psychological impact is to rub your finger over every major scratch or dimple, and shake your head no in disappointment. The car dealers use this all the time, so learn from the best. You don't have to say a word, the seller reads it right off your face, and you've set him up for the low ball offer. Have your partner write down all damage.
Ask for the maintenance records. Bet he'll have nothing at all. This is why I tell you to save every record, and oil change receipt in a notebook. Just add each new one to the end, and you have a nice history record. Now buyers of your car years later can't say you did not take good care of your car. Ask if the car has been in a wreck, staring them right in the eyes waiting for their answer. If the answer is yes, inspect the area that was repaired, and point out every tiny little flaw in that repair.
Test Drive The Seller's Used Car
Take the seller with you and ask questions when noises pop up. Listen for noises, rattles, or grinding sounds. If you hear rattling in the quarter panels, the car may have been in a wreck. If the car is a manual transmission, see if the shifting is smooth. Ask the seller if the clutch has been replaced, clutches fail after 4-5 years. This sets up the seller for a low ball offer. Most people are unaware that manual transmission vehicles have lower market values than automatic. Check the heater and the A/C, drive it in the daylight when the sun is hottest, to see how the A/C performs. Listen for grinding noises when the A/C kicks in, the bearings in the compressor are worn.
If the car has a voltmeter, make sure the voltage stays at 13.6 volts when the A/C is on. Bring a portable volt meter with you. Not everyone has one, many people do. You can get them for $20. Measure the voltage across the battery terminals with the engine running, and the meter set to DC Voltage. The voltage should be at least 13.6 Volts with the engine running, and no more than 14.8 volts. If it's not, there is a problem with the charging circuit, most likely the alternator, which is a costly component, usually about $150 rebuilt. If the battery is not at least 13.6V with the engine on, the 12V battery will not remain charged, and will die soon.
Drive with the radio on and off. Test the speakers to see if they are cracked. Make sure the CD player works. Take the car on a highway, main streets, and side streets, see if the car loses alignment, or bears to the left or right. See how good the car brakes, drive sharply around some corners, and your companion is writing everything down. Make sure all the seat belts work, that electric seats work, look for missing or burned out bulbs inside and out. If the car has retractable headlights, make sure they pop up and turn on. Make sure the brake lights, reverse lights and directional lights work. Ask the seller when the brake pads were last replaced.
"What kind of research did you do to determine what your car is worth?
Show me your research printouts, I have all mine right here, where's yours?"
I bet the seller has no research may be arrogant and indignant over your offer. They are unaware their asking price is off base, they get infuriated with your "low ball offer", and may refuse to deal with you. They probably need the money, the car is taking up space in their driveway, their wife complains every day as he lets offers slip through his fingers. His pride won't let him sell the car at your price. He'll say, "why don't you buy one of those other cars if they are cheaper? If my car is not worth it, why do you want it at all?" It's their last ditch futile effort to justify their price. He's trying to divert you from the fact that he cannot justify his selling price. Any seller using this strategy has just told you he has no valid research on the value of the car. A seller who knows the market value would say "Here's my printouts from the car pricing sites, my price is in line with accepted standards". Tell him "We like your car, but the research we have shows that it is not worth your asking price", point out all the defects, lack of maintenance records, etc. Tell him the printouts specify a car in good condition. Point out scratches, dings, rust, carpet stains, cracked dash, justification to offer even less than the car pricing printouts. Keep hammering him for his research and justification until you are the clear victor of that debate.
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