Monday, January 13, 2014

What is better leasing a car or buying one?

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Alicia F


I am interested in getting a Ford Escape soon since my recent car sucks! I don't have a a lot of credit , I don't own a house or anything really and between my fiancee and I are income is about $2000 a month. People say leasing is a good idea but I don't know if it would benefit or not. Any1 know which is better? Give me some info!


Answer
OK, first off, with your income, you need to scale it down a bit. A Ford Escape is more car then you should be looking at. You want to buy something maybe a year or two old, that has already taken a BIG depreciation hit, but is still new enough to qualify for good interest rates and terms. When you drive off the lot, you have a used car, and are upside down unless you put a big down payment into it.. and even then you are better off with a 1 or 2 yr old car.

I actually think leasing is a good idea if YOU know what you are doing. It is NOT the dealers responsibility to make sure you know what you are doing. When you walk in the door, your mindset is that you are gonna put the screws to the dealer, and their mindset is no different. So, you need to be prepared. If you put as much work into researching a lease as you do going on your family trip to Disney, you can make a good deal, and structure a proper lease. But, most people cant be bothered, and then scream ripoff after.

If you need to lease to keep your payments low, then you also need to lease a less expensive vehicle. However, if you dont have much credit, you might not even qualify for a lease, since you need better credit to qualify for one.

To address comments made here, specifically "Remeber lease companies will charge you for any dents ,dings, excess mileage, scratches, interior dirt, tires that are worn, broken glass".

Let me ask you this. If you were to trade this car in after paying for it, do you really believe the dealer does not charge you for all of this? Think about the last time you traded and were SURE your car was worth $5,000. Then the dealer pointed out all of those things wrong with the car, and that is why you were getting $2,800. You ALWAYS pay.. the difference is this.. with a lease you do not have to pay for the entire car to get to this point.

And for those who are not aware, unless you walk into the dealership with a title to your trade in, you dont own anything, you have an outstanding balance, and probably owe more on the car than it is worth. So, for people who say, I like to OWN my metal, I can tell you from MANY years of experience managing dealerships.... the VAST majority of people NEVER own their cars outright when they trade them in, most owe 2-4 years in payments still... so, you just get a lower trade allowance for the damage, and after paying off the loan balance, you still owe thousands of dollars... ever been there, and it was NOT a lease to blame it on? People slam leases because they do not understand them, but that is not the dealers fault, it is the consumers fault.

Take some time to research leases. If you know what you are doing, you can save a ton of money on cars.

What do I need to know about buying a classic Corvette?




Tumbling D


I want a C3 and I want to spend under $20,000. There are plenty of them but I want some info of what to look for. What does matching numbers mean? What about the standard engines? It seems that there are two types, can you break that down for me? What was the last year that they produced Vettes made of metal instead of fiberglass. Hook me up.


Answer
Corvettes were never made out of metal (the bodies I mean).

The frames however are steel and they can RUST. This is one of the first things you check.

The C3 was made '68-82.

Matching numbers means a lot of different things...in strictest terms, it means that stamped on the "engine pad" on the right cylinder head is a series of number and letters, and SOME of those numbers are a "VIN derivative"--that is, there are perhaps 6 numbers on the engine pad that match the VIN numbers on the VIN plate.

Counterfeiting is rampant on old Corvettes and any suspicious stampings should be further investigated. There are many ways to "date code" an engine to see if it's legit. You need to start doing lots of homework on this matter.

A broader interpretation of "matching numbers" means that the date codes on the various components of the car all make sense....that is, they are dated about the same time. This also requires lots of homework. You might have the right engine but the wrong transmission. You might have the correct block but the wrong cylinder heads.

A C3 can have a 327, 427, 305, 350 or 454 depending on the year made.

Aside from counterfeit cars and rust, you have to look out for fiberglas bodies that are coming apart. Corvettes are not made out of one piece of glass, they are stuck together with "bonding strips" and these can start to separate. You can often notice this if you look down the side of the car or in other areas. You'll see a pronounced ridge or even a gap.

Also keep in mind that some of the later C3s are not very desirable or valuable. You should be able to buy a late 70s C3 very cheaply. This is because of the styling and also because the HP was very low on some models, as low as 175HP. It got so bad that one year, 1982 (last year for the C3) you couldn't even get a stickshift in the car---automatic only.

So do your homework, bargain hard, and be very wary of what people "claim". There is no car with more criminal activity attached to it than a Corvette----well, maybe a Ferrari....




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