car info sheet image
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I'm only 15 and know notyhing of cars, I know a little about math though, and I don't want a car that gets horrible gas milage. I'm justr wondering what you guys think would be a good car to get. THANKS. [[:
Answer
If you want insane mileage, a hybrid like the Prius or Civic Hybrid can get you high mileage. So will subcompacts like the Yaris. Many Japanese imports from the late 1970s, 1980s and possibly the very early 1990s can also get rather high mileage. In all reality, any car that gets more than 28 mpg highway or truck (full sized) that gets above 18mpg highway gets pretty good mileage. If the car is new, the dealer info sheet (often found on one of the front windows at the dealership) almost always has the EPA mileage estimate. If you are buying the car used or it does not have the dealer info sheet, try fueleconomy.gov or kbb.com (the latter will also give suggested pricing).
As for a particular car to get, that really depends on what you want. Just remember that Japanese cars are not the only ones that get good gas mileage (Chevrolet has more 30+ mpg models than any manufacturer).
Personally, I think the Chevy Cobalt or Aveo are good cars for new drivers if you get them with automatic transmissions or know how to drive a stick.
If you want insane mileage, a hybrid like the Prius or Civic Hybrid can get you high mileage. So will subcompacts like the Yaris. Many Japanese imports from the late 1970s, 1980s and possibly the very early 1990s can also get rather high mileage. In all reality, any car that gets more than 28 mpg highway or truck (full sized) that gets above 18mpg highway gets pretty good mileage. If the car is new, the dealer info sheet (often found on one of the front windows at the dealership) almost always has the EPA mileage estimate. If you are buying the car used or it does not have the dealer info sheet, try fueleconomy.gov or kbb.com (the latter will also give suggested pricing).
As for a particular car to get, that really depends on what you want. Just remember that Japanese cars are not the only ones that get good gas mileage (Chevrolet has more 30+ mpg models than any manufacturer).
Personally, I think the Chevy Cobalt or Aveo are good cars for new drivers if you get them with automatic transmissions or know how to drive a stick.
Is the sum of the speakers in my car the total number of watts?
William
I have 120watt speakers in the front, 140watt speaker in the back of my car.
Does this mean I have. 260watt system?
My radio putts out 50watts should I get an amplifier?
And if should what should I get?
Answer
In car audio, you get what you pay for. If you buy a crappy Boss stereo instead of an Alpine or Pioneer stereo, you'll probably be sending the Boss stereo in for warranty issues.
Brands that are good for the following categories are:
Amp: Top 5: Rockford Fosgate, Hifonics, Alpine, Kicker, Infinity.
Honorable Mentions: Kicker, Polk Audio, Boston Acoustics, Pioneer.
Speaker: Top 5: Focal, Rockford Fosgate, Kicker, Infinity, Alpine.
Honorable Mentions: Boston Acoustics, Kenwood, Hifonics, Polk Audio, JL.
Subwoofer: Top 5: Fi, Alpine, Kicker, Rockford Fosgate, Pioneer Premier.
Honorable Mentions: Hifonics, Infinity, Kenwood, Pioneer (Basic Pioneer).
OEM Processors: Rockford Fosgate 360.2 Processor
On a Budget: Hifonics Processors.
Wire: Kicker and Rockford Fosgate.
Also, stick with name brand companies that follow the AWG system.
Head Unit: Alpine, Pioneer, Kenwood.
The only place I recommend to buy any of these products are Crutchfield.com and the actual company's homepage that makes the products so you can get your warranty with the product.
When you upgrade anything in your system, it's best to upgrade everything, because every component will compliment each other to make the best sounding system.
--------------------------------------â¦
A rule of thumb when designing a custom system is that when you add (a) subwoofer(s) you need to follow the following formula when going for SQ (Sound Quality) instead of SPL (Sound Pressure Level): Total RMS (Root Mean Squared OR Constant Wattage) of all speakers should be double to figure the RMS that the subs should be. i.e. If you have a 4-speaker system that has 50w RMS per speaker, then you'd 50 x 4 giving you 200. Then take 200 x 2 which gives you 400. That means that your system should have a subwoofer(s) with 400w RMS.
If you need any help just e-mail if you need help!!!
You can do all this on your own. I can give you links to diagrams that I've made to help you install your system and if you order from Crutchfield.com (which I highly recommend) they'll send you a Master Sheet with everything on it.
If you go to Crutchfield.com you can click on "Outfit My Car" and enter your car's info, then Crutchfield will show you all the products that will fit/work with your car.
Good luck!
In car audio, you get what you pay for. If you buy a crappy Boss stereo instead of an Alpine or Pioneer stereo, you'll probably be sending the Boss stereo in for warranty issues.
Brands that are good for the following categories are:
Amp: Top 5: Rockford Fosgate, Hifonics, Alpine, Kicker, Infinity.
Honorable Mentions: Kicker, Polk Audio, Boston Acoustics, Pioneer.
Speaker: Top 5: Focal, Rockford Fosgate, Kicker, Infinity, Alpine.
Honorable Mentions: Boston Acoustics, Kenwood, Hifonics, Polk Audio, JL.
Subwoofer: Top 5: Fi, Alpine, Kicker, Rockford Fosgate, Pioneer Premier.
Honorable Mentions: Hifonics, Infinity, Kenwood, Pioneer (Basic Pioneer).
OEM Processors: Rockford Fosgate 360.2 Processor
On a Budget: Hifonics Processors.
Wire: Kicker and Rockford Fosgate.
Also, stick with name brand companies that follow the AWG system.
Head Unit: Alpine, Pioneer, Kenwood.
The only place I recommend to buy any of these products are Crutchfield.com and the actual company's homepage that makes the products so you can get your warranty with the product.
When you upgrade anything in your system, it's best to upgrade everything, because every component will compliment each other to make the best sounding system.
--------------------------------------â¦
A rule of thumb when designing a custom system is that when you add (a) subwoofer(s) you need to follow the following formula when going for SQ (Sound Quality) instead of SPL (Sound Pressure Level): Total RMS (Root Mean Squared OR Constant Wattage) of all speakers should be double to figure the RMS that the subs should be. i.e. If you have a 4-speaker system that has 50w RMS per speaker, then you'd 50 x 4 giving you 200. Then take 200 x 2 which gives you 400. That means that your system should have a subwoofer(s) with 400w RMS.
If you need any help just e-mail if you need help!!!
You can do all this on your own. I can give you links to diagrams that I've made to help you install your system and if you order from Crutchfield.com (which I highly recommend) they'll send you a Master Sheet with everything on it.
If you go to Crutchfield.com you can click on "Outfit My Car" and enter your car's info, then Crutchfield will show you all the products that will fit/work with your car.
Good luck!
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